You don’t see that many people hitch hiking
these days. Certainly not like in the
late ‘50s and ‘60s when I was doing it as a matter of necessity. Where we lived up in Whistler, BC you see
quite a bit because we have many young people from all over the world who come
to work in the resort. Many do not have
cars and hitch back and forth to work.
Of course, it’s a closed community with only one road in and out so it’s
pretty safe. I will pick up these kids
unless they are wearing their trousers at half-mast, have their baseball cap on
sideways or are carrying a skateboard. I
know. So shoot me.
Back in 1959 when I went off to Cornell I
frequently hitch hiked back and forth to my home in Buffalo. Generally it wasn’t much of a problem to get
a ride, but that was before well-publicized abductions and car-jackings came
into vogue. And, before 24-hour news channels came into being. In 1960-61 I put
my thumb to the test in what turned out to be about 10,000 miles of hitch
hiking around the US. I had good luck
and bad on the road and certainly some bizarre experiences. Before getting into all that, maybe a little
background.
I went off to college at 17 and was quite
naive. Public high school had been great fun and not too difficult but, Cornell
was another matter. I figured everyone
there was smarter and better prepared than me.
I had to work my ass off to catch up and survive academically. It was also necessary to work for my food
since it became clear early on that this college thing would be a self-financed
deal. On top of all that I had no idea
what I really wanted to do with my life.
In short, I was a confused young man.
I quit my job two weeks before the end of the term to study for my
finals. My roommate had flunked out
already and I knew he was a Hell of a lot smarter than me. (You know it’s true Laddie). Of course, that cut off my meals and being
broke I subsisted on wheat germ mixed with sugar that I stole from the
cafeteria… and lots of coffee.
When the beach
closed for the summer we each shouldered a Navy sea bag and headed south. To make good our escape and get clear of
Buffalo, we took a bus to Pittsburgh.
From there we hitched in the rain to Washington, DC.
After a night in a
cheap motel we spent 15 hours the next day going 300 miles. Following a pleasant night in Lucy Nathan’s
Tourist Home in Raleigh, ten minutes of hitching got us a 700 mile ride to
Leesburg, FL where things once again went dead.
It was the middle of the night with no one on the road. When the cops came by the third time, they
invited us to sleep in their brand new jail.
We accepted. I must say I was a
little nervous when they took our ID and locked us in, and I was relieved when
they let us out in the morning. Not as
nice as Lucy’s but, certainly better than sleeping in the ditch with the
snakes. The next day several rides took
us to Miami.
In hitch hiking you never know what the day
will bring. Often you can stand on a
likely spot for hours with no luck. Or,
you will get rides of short distances and get dropped off in the middle of
nowhere. And then suddenly you will catch
a ride of hundreds of miles with someone who is going exactly where you want to
go. It’s totally random.
In Miami Bill and
I set up housekeeping in a one room apartment near the Orange Bowl and started
looking for work and sailboats to sign on as crew. At a local shipyard we found that we could
sign on as crew and do the dirty work that the union guys did not want to do
anyway. We spent our days sweating in
the sun chipping and painting anchor chain and doing other grunt work. It paid the rent and kept us in beer. We found an opportunity to get on the yacht
“Holiday” owned by the Squirt Company.
That chance kept moving around and getting delayed so, (impatient me)
signed on with the “Brigantine Yankee”.
Bill waited it out for months but finally got to make some great trips
on the “Holiday” that took him all through the Caribbean, up the coast to
Acapulco and on to California. We both got what we were looking for, I guess.
I made two hitching expeditions to Rollins
College in Orlando where my good friend Pete was a student. On my second visit we drove back to Buffalo
together for Christmas. The Yankee was undergoing renovations below
decks at the time.
Returning to Miami I rejoined the Yankee and stayed until early
April. I knew it was time to try to earn
some money if I wanted to go back to school, so the brilliant plan was to hitch
hike to Alaska where, I had read, opportunities to make big bucks
abounded. I had joined up on this leg of
the adventure with a fellow named, Rip Bliss who had been a fellow deck hand on
the Yankee. The trip would be complicated by the fact
that Rip had no money. Thus, our
sleeping arrangements on the long jaunt from Miami to Chicago and LA were on
various occasions: An orange grove; a
tomato hot house; a railway car and the odd field. We also relied on the kindness of
strangers.
We often got picked up by
religious types and were invited to their services. We always accepted for the pitch usually
included a meal. I attended in my year
of travels; Lutheran, Methodist, Catholic, Mormon and even Jewish
services. I regarded it as a broadening
of my understanding of my fellow man.
Our goal was to hitch hike the length of
Route 66 which stretched from Chicago to Los Angeles. As usual we had good and bad luck and we met
some interesting characters along the way.
One day after spending all night trying to get out of Springfield, MO
(and searched by cops three different times) we got a ride from a guy who owned
a cave…. as in tourist attraction cavern.
He gave us a free tour of the caverns lunch and a ride back to Rt.
66. We struggled to get to Tulsa and
then got a long ride to Ft. Sumner, NM where we slept in a railroad car.
The next day we got picked up immediately by
a WAC (as in female Army) who took us all the way to Rip’s home in Carpinteria,
CA. – 1000 miles or so. Now every guy
who’s ever stood by the side of the road with his thumb out has fantasized
about being picked up by a sexy female.
Our female did not inspire lustful thoughts. She did, however, stop
every 100 miles or so and buy another six-pack.
After a couple of
days of food and rest at Rip’s home we continued our journey up to Seattle and
arrived (both of us at this point) pretty much broke. The Alaska thing would have to wait. Funny thing… I never have made it up there. We needed jobs quickly and after getting
turned down by the smoke jumpers, hooked on with the Forest Service with their
Pine Shoot Moth Survey. The purpose: To
discover the extent of infestation of the pine shoot moth in the ornamental
shrubs in various communities in Western Washington. They were worried that these critters would
get into the commercial timber and raise Hell.
This job had one advantage and one major drawback, the latter being, we
would not get our first paycheck for a month.
The advantage was we would be paid per diem while we traveled around the
state. At least we would eat and have a
place to sleep. This worked fine for a
couple of weeks until they discovered I had one semester of Entomology and other
science courses. I got yanked off the
road and brought in to run the lab and manage the office. I also got to live in the office located in
an abandoned lumber warehouse. I slept
on a half-couch with my feet propped up on a folding chair. I kept milk cold by
plugging the bathroom sink and running the water slowly. I salvaged a hot plate
and a couple of pans and for amusement trapped mice.
I was desperately low on cash when I got a
well-traveled letter from Jack Alexander, a guy who had come aboard the Yankee as a guest. He wanted me to call him about a job. When I called, he offered to send me a round
trip plane ticket to Minnesota to look it over.
I was suspicious. It sounded too
good to be true. On the other hand, what
did I have to lose? Besides, I had never
been on a commercial flight and, I was extremely tired of my own meager meal
plan. I had never experienced luxury
like that jet flight to Minneapolis and back!
The job involved ostensibly working for the family owned Cold Spring
Granite Company, then the largest in the World.
But, the real job was playing big brother to his young sons, aged 13 and
9. His wife was a wheelchair bound MS patient and he traveled all the time. He wanted me to spend the summer with the
boys at their lake cottage and teach them swimming, sailing, gymnastics and
anything else constructive I could think of.
The money, with food and lodging included, would be generous enough to
enable me to go back to Cornell. It was
a summer job that I would do for the next three summers and always included an
extensive canoe trip into the border wilderness between Manitoba and Ontario at
the beginning of each summer.
That first year as the summer wound down
Bill hitch-hiked up from Southern California and we spent a few days at the
lake before hitching together back to Buffalo.
Thus we finished the trip as we had begun a year before…. Standing
together at the side of the road with our thumbs out.
1 comment:
What great memories! Your narrative was enjoyable to read, but the right side column blocked out the last few letters of text from each line, so I had to guess the missing words. I'm sure that what you actually wrote was far more entertaining than what I substituted. Please continue this saga!
ps, now that Mike is adding another generation of Drapers down this way, you and Mrs. D. should consider re-patriating in the Portland area. That might entice Karen and Tara to move down this way too. It would be fun having your family nearby. Cheers!
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